YAKIBA - EARLY MORNING WIND SWELL

early rise - cloud hazy over rising sun - wanted to surf - last two days watching wind rapping the sea against the rocks - brewing waves - albeit weak - could ride though - thoughts racing by - watching them go - where from and where to? - rode waves for an hour - sooooo shallow - like 10cm under the water the living reef - Now coffee charges the brain - and inspiration has a chance to be channeled