just be
GOD IS NOT OUTSIDE US BUT IS JUST US - THE LIVING AND THE DEAD - THE NEVER LIVED AND NEVER DIED - THAT WE SHOULD LEARN IT ONLY NOW - IS SUPREME REALITY - IT WAS WRITTEN A LONG TIME AGO IN THE ARCHIVES OF UNIVERSAL MIND - IT IS ALREADY DONE - THERE IS NO MORE TO DO -
(JACK KEROAUC - 1956)
(JACK KEROAUC - 1956)
earthquake
WOKE UP, FROM A DREAM, OR MAYBE THE DREAM HAD WOKEN ME JUST BEFORE. THE WHOLE PLACE WAS SHAKING. CONTINUALLY SHAKING. THINGS DROPPING. RATTLING. FALLING. HITTING THE FLOOR. INSTINCTUALLY, THOUGH INSTINCT SEEMED TO TAKE A WHILE TO KICK IN, I JUMPED TO MY FEET. TOOK MY SURFBOARD FROM THE WALL ABOVE OUR BED AND LAY IN ON THE FLOOR. THE SHAKING CONTINUED. PRETTY SERIOUS SITUATION. I OPENED THE FRONT DOOR. ALTHOUGH IT WAS 2:30 IN THE MORNING IT WAS GLOWING SO BRIGHT. FULL MOON NIGHTS ON THIS ISLAND, WITH THE CLEAR AIR, ARE VERY BRIGHT. WHEN I LOOKED AT THE MOON THOUGH IT WAS AN INCREDIBLE, ONE MIGHT SAY MYSTERIOUS SIGHT. THERE WAS A DEEP ORANGE HALO AROUND IT. IF THE MOON WAS 3cm IN DIAMETER, THE HALO EXTENDED TO ABOUT 15CM. THE SHAKING STOPPED. SOMETHING LIKE TWENTY SECONDS HAD PAST. WE WERE FILLED WITH ANXIETY. JOLTED FROM SLEEP TO A POTENTIALLY APOCALYPTIC REALITY. THAT'S WHEN THE TSUNAMI SIREN SOUNDED. AND THE PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENT. IN A NERVOUS JITTERING VOICE, LACED WITH FEAR OF UNEXPECTED DEVASTATING EVENTS ABOUT TO HAPPEN. THE VOICE WAS DIRECTING ALL PEOPLE LIVING AT LOW LEVEL TO EVACUATE TO HIGHER GROUND. 'TIDAL WAVES OF AROUND 2m MAY HIT VERY SOON'. WE ARE LIVING MOUNTAIN SIDE SO FELT LITTLE FEAR OF THE WATER. THOUGH IMAGINATION SO QUICKLY BROUGHT IMAGES OF MANY OF THE ISLAND'S POPULATION, LIVING AT SEA LEVEL IN THE VILLAGE. WAKING PETRIFIED AND THEN AS QUICKLY AS WAKING, GETTING INTO CARS, OR ONTO BICYCLES, PERHAPS WITH FRIGHTENED YOUNGSTERS, HEADING TO HIGHER LAND.
Turns out it was a 7.4 magnitude quake. Tsunami waves hit but bringing no danger. Further quakes are still happening as I write this post, now 11am the next day.
Check : JAPANESE METEOROLOGICAL AGENCY
Turns out it was a 7.4 magnitude quake. Tsunami waves hit but bringing no danger. Further quakes are still happening as I write this post, now 11am the next day.
Check : JAPANESE METEOROLOGICAL AGENCY
dusk
...when the rain pours for a long time this water gains the momentum to connect to the ocean and modify the sand bank. When the wave breaks here, it's a particular for many locals, providing a right hander to ride amongst an abundance of lefts.
blue swell
...swell from the west and the north bringing waves. 3 hours of surfing last night, and 3 hours this morning.
This photograph shows the point known as 30's, generally closing out, though looked like a few make-able short rides.
A little down the way, peeling reeling left handers rolled along the shallow reef known locally as 松.
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from high
....the view from here is really spectacular. The mountainous peaks can be seen undulating the length and breadth of the island. Forest is everywhere in so many forms, a blanket green and brown giving pure breathable air. On this day a low pressure system was providing classic waves for the folks who live on the Japanese mainland, 1000km to the north. Looking westwards, out into the ocean, the swell lines from this low pressure system could be seen moving from north to south. Hahajima could be seen to the south, her peaks immersed in the low cloud. A few days earlier, using an outrigger canoe, utilizing only wind and paddle, 4 friends had journeyed south, from here to there. It was with an excited ear that I listened to the talk of 'moonbows' - rainbows cast by the light power of the moon - and of the whole nature assisted 12 hour journey.
kominato - island west side
this is the most consistent time for waves on this gorgeous beach though no swell around the island today.
lizard
tiny, solitary, warmed by the morning sun, feasting on tiny insects - this is an island lizard on a rocky beach
clouds and colours
...day nearing it's end, headed to the rocky bay to watch the sun fall into the ocean. Of late, with so much rain, a sight to behold. Our neighbour's djembe drumming a perfect serenade to the visual. Afterwards the huge moon rose so bright and powerful from beyond the forest which backs the beach.
mahoro 2010
gonna be a party night at Radford, a kind of island surf bar - so made this flyer on Sugi-kun's request - amazing what can be done with a ball point pen, inspiration and patience
soaring high
beyond the blades of grass
flower from our window
DISTANT SURFING POSSIBILITY
a steep walk of about 50 minutes, paddle about 30 minutes, and ride these waves. Then the journey in reverse.
YAKIBA - EARLY MORNING WIND SWELL
early rise - cloud hazy over rising sun - wanted to surf - last two days watching wind rapping the sea against the rocks - brewing waves - albeit weak - could ride though - thoughts racing by - watching them go - where from and where to? - rode waves for an hour - sooooo shallow - like 10cm under the water the living reef - Now coffee charges the brain - and inspiration has a chance to be channeled
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