dying swell








huge tree, uprooted, on it's side, lying across the rocky road where we would park to surf 松. The huge swell a few weeks ago, along with the effects of a big moon, rose sea levels and chucked huge and small boulders up on to the road from the rocky coast line too. Arriving there yesterday, the day still not light, discovered the way through is now no more. A little bit of a longer walk to the waves. In the water about 3 hours, the wait between sets becoming progressively longer.  Still good waves when they came, though the swell was dying.