been breathin' all day
warmin' up
in 4 weeks away I was away
ocean warmin'
people brownin'
freshwater lackin'
festival preparin'
sun shinin'
fish swimmin'
World Heritage becomin'
low cloud lingers
lingering rainy season
though not for much longer now
though not for much longer now
recent early morning paddle boarding
hazy low cloud
dolphins jumping
turtles in abundance
mating season for many
FLOATER BOY DOESN'T OFTEN MISS A SURF
Huge hike to Ishiura.
Called for Floater Boy on the way.
His van wasn't there outside his house.
So went alone.
On the way realized I'd forgot my surfboard.
Went back for it.
Climbed the mountain road.
The sun shining bright.
The swell chart I'd seen showed swell.
The view from the mountain top confirmed swell.
The wind was onshore, though not a problem.
Meditative hike down.
Mr Mustard at the bottom,
and Indonesian island living chap,
and Ken old school super student.
All working in paradise on beautiful Hatsune beach.
Though what a walk everyday. Up and down.
8mm images recorded all the way.
Beautiful day.
Beautiful movie to be.
Hiked up from Hatsune,
towards Ishiura.
Lost the path,
super steep and slippery with one hand
(the other carrying surf board and gyosan sandals).
The view from the top a delight.
Though had to stay cool as to get back down.
After numerous good decisions, and patience
Reconnected to the path.
And down to the stream in the hidden valley.
And on to surf.
Waves sweet.
Sweet waves.
And Floater Boy arrives,
naturally.
A whale jumps.
So far far away this place in the whole universe.
Surf all day.
The walk back so tiring.
The days following purely exhausting.
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