just be
GOD IS NOT OUTSIDE US BUT IS JUST US - THE LIVING AND THE DEAD - THE NEVER LIVED AND NEVER DIED - THAT WE SHOULD LEARN IT ONLY NOW - IS SUPREME REALITY - IT WAS WRITTEN A LONG TIME AGO IN THE ARCHIVES OF UNIVERSAL MIND - IT IS ALREADY DONE - THERE IS NO MORE TO DO -
(JACK KEROAUC - 1956)
(JACK KEROAUC - 1956)
earthquake
WOKE UP, FROM A DREAM, OR MAYBE THE DREAM HAD WOKEN ME JUST BEFORE. THE WHOLE PLACE WAS SHAKING. CONTINUALLY SHAKING. THINGS DROPPING. RATTLING. FALLING. HITTING THE FLOOR. INSTINCTUALLY, THOUGH INSTINCT SEEMED TO TAKE A WHILE TO KICK IN, I JUMPED TO MY FEET. TOOK MY SURFBOARD FROM THE WALL ABOVE OUR BED AND LAY IN ON THE FLOOR. THE SHAKING CONTINUED. PRETTY SERIOUS SITUATION. I OPENED THE FRONT DOOR. ALTHOUGH IT WAS 2:30 IN THE MORNING IT WAS GLOWING SO BRIGHT. FULL MOON NIGHTS ON THIS ISLAND, WITH THE CLEAR AIR, ARE VERY BRIGHT. WHEN I LOOKED AT THE MOON THOUGH IT WAS AN INCREDIBLE, ONE MIGHT SAY MYSTERIOUS SIGHT. THERE WAS A DEEP ORANGE HALO AROUND IT. IF THE MOON WAS 3cm IN DIAMETER, THE HALO EXTENDED TO ABOUT 15CM. THE SHAKING STOPPED. SOMETHING LIKE TWENTY SECONDS HAD PAST. WE WERE FILLED WITH ANXIETY. JOLTED FROM SLEEP TO A POTENTIALLY APOCALYPTIC REALITY. THAT'S WHEN THE TSUNAMI SIREN SOUNDED. AND THE PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENT. IN A NERVOUS JITTERING VOICE, LACED WITH FEAR OF UNEXPECTED DEVASTATING EVENTS ABOUT TO HAPPEN. THE VOICE WAS DIRECTING ALL PEOPLE LIVING AT LOW LEVEL TO EVACUATE TO HIGHER GROUND. 'TIDAL WAVES OF AROUND 2m MAY HIT VERY SOON'. WE ARE LIVING MOUNTAIN SIDE SO FELT LITTLE FEAR OF THE WATER. THOUGH IMAGINATION SO QUICKLY BROUGHT IMAGES OF MANY OF THE ISLAND'S POPULATION, LIVING AT SEA LEVEL IN THE VILLAGE. WAKING PETRIFIED AND THEN AS QUICKLY AS WAKING, GETTING INTO CARS, OR ONTO BICYCLES, PERHAPS WITH FRIGHTENED YOUNGSTERS, HEADING TO HIGHER LAND.
Turns out it was a 7.4 magnitude quake. Tsunami waves hit but bringing no danger. Further quakes are still happening as I write this post, now 11am the next day.
Check : JAPANESE METEOROLOGICAL AGENCY
Turns out it was a 7.4 magnitude quake. Tsunami waves hit but bringing no danger. Further quakes are still happening as I write this post, now 11am the next day.
Check : JAPANESE METEOROLOGICAL AGENCY
dusk
...when the rain pours for a long time this water gains the momentum to connect to the ocean and modify the sand bank. When the wave breaks here, it's a particular for many locals, providing a right hander to ride amongst an abundance of lefts.
blue swell
...swell from the west and the north bringing waves. 3 hours of surfing last night, and 3 hours this morning.
This photograph shows the point known as 30's, generally closing out, though looked like a few make-able short rides.
A little down the way, peeling reeling left handers rolled along the shallow reef known locally as 松.
.
from high
....the view from here is really spectacular. The mountainous peaks can be seen undulating the length and breadth of the island. Forest is everywhere in so many forms, a blanket green and brown giving pure breathable air. On this day a low pressure system was providing classic waves for the folks who live on the Japanese mainland, 1000km to the north. Looking westwards, out into the ocean, the swell lines from this low pressure system could be seen moving from north to south. Hahajima could be seen to the south, her peaks immersed in the low cloud. A few days earlier, using an outrigger canoe, utilizing only wind and paddle, 4 friends had journeyed south, from here to there. It was with an excited ear that I listened to the talk of 'moonbows' - rainbows cast by the light power of the moon - and of the whole nature assisted 12 hour journey.
kominato - island west side
this is the most consistent time for waves on this gorgeous beach though no swell around the island today.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)