east side surf white out














On seeing the swell forecast big and low out to the east, headed into the morning raring for a surf. From the mountain top, howling wind and far too much white water. The break, a long paddle from the beach visible at the bottom, round that jutting headland and into the reefy rocky beach on the other side On a windless day, would be reeling both ways. Pure isolation, worthy of the 3 hours or so round trip hiking down and back through the jungle, on top of the paddle.